Following of the post "where to start"
I uploaded some basic bodice blocks (standart size) in Pdf so you can start styling your first pattern.
Free Downloads from our FB group
Free Downloads from my website.
Enlarging your block is the first step.
- It allows you to "think" about the ease.
- It allows you to plan better your developement and pattern strategy.
- It allows you to know and understand your master block better. The master block is not only your second skin, it is as well your first tool and your need to know it very very very well.
- Enlargements are done at the side seams at underarm, wait and hip level.
- The center front and center remain where they are. The center front line will change according to the front opening, it has nothing to do with the ease we are adding.
Tutorial on where to put the new side lines in order to give more ease for a jacket, shirt, coat......
Those drawings show how to make an enlargement on a bodice block to obtain a close fitted jacket.
Those enlargement values are minimal for jacket. (see the video to see how much enlargement value I choose for that exercise)
Enlargement come first, before dart manipulation, before styling, before anything.
The shoulder enlargement is not compulsory. It depends on the style and fashion. The shoulder enlargement was much bigger in the 80's. Nowadays, it tends to be inexistant : the armhole tends to be closer to the neck and the crown of the sleeve tends to be higher so the top of the sleeve follow the curve edge of the shoulder.
Take the blocks back and front side seam facing each other (it makes things easier that way)
Start by the underarm. see the little horizontal extention.
Now go down vertically to find the new underarm point
Make an extention horizontally at the waist
And at the hips
And extend the shoulder line too
Now we have 4 new points (underarm, waist, hips and shoulder). That gives us new lines.
Prepare to trace the new armhole (see those little right angle line?)
See how easy it is to trace those new curves now. They have to start on a right angle line from the side seam and shoulder seam
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