The Shirt Collar without a stand - How to draft the pattern

 

How to draw a shirt collar

You can start by drafting a mandarin collar (see previous post there)

The rectangle equal the neckline measurement of the pattern

Raise it of 1/10 the total length.

Note that the raise part (center front side is narrower. The stand is smaller that at center back.

The fall (green line)

Draw the fall. Straight line at the top from center back to center front.

Shape it at center front to look like something you like.

The fall should "cover" the stand, it should be highter.

The stand in blue

The fall in green

Mirror the fall along the straight line.

The collar is taking shape

Modify the center back so it keeps right angles. (red lines)

We can extend down the center back line until a right angle is found. Then curve into the lower line (sewn on the neckline)

In red, we have the new collar outline.

We will have to develop so it sits well.

draw the cutting lines.

3 or 4, at equal distance and close to the shoulder seam : that where the collar turns the most.

Develop the collar.

Pivot at neckline making sure that no value is added there.

3 to 5 mm gap is enought for a small collar

Redraw nice curves and we are done

Watch the video for more details

the mandarin collar - How to draft it

How to draw a mandarin collar with variations

To draft the mandarin collar, you will need to draw the neckline. 

Move away from the block as we need ease for the collar's seam allowance.

Then, measure the neckline front and neckline back.

First draw a rectangle

The length is the neckline back + the neckline front.

The height is the collar stand (maybe 2, 3 or 4 cm)

Notch between the back and front which is the shoulder seam position

Raise the front part

Lift the front part from the shoulder notch.

For the moment, raise 1/10 of the rectangle (half neckline). 

Make sure that the length remains the same.

COLLAR 1

You can start the slope before the shoulder notche : It makes a smoother curve.

that collar is pretty up right.

It can be used as the STAND for your shirt collar.

The collar stands up right,

it doesn't lean on the neck.

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COLLAR 2 : Increase the raise at centre front

Change the raise angle.

Preciously it was 1/10, now let's make it more.

The collar is not so upright, 

It lean on the neck

For that variation, it is recommended that you widen the neckline at start, to leave more room between the collar base and the neck.

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COLLAR 3 : Raise it even more

Raise it more, 5 cm or more

the collar leans more along the neck.

The collar will become flat at the front when the raised curve will be equal to the curve neckline.

The back will always be straight up because there is not curve there.

Variation on a Mandarin collar

VIDEO TUTO