Thursday 18 March 2021

The Shirt Collar without a stand - How to draft the pattern

 




How to draw a shirt collar

You can start by drafting a mandarin collar (see previous post there)




The rectangle equal the neckline measurement of the pattern















Raise it of 1/10 the total length.

Note that the raise part (center front side is narrower. The stand is smaller that at center back.










The fall (green line)


Draw the fall. Straight line at the top from center back to center front.
Shape it at center front to look like something you like.
The fall should "cover" the stand, it should be highter.









The stand in blue
The fall in green















Mirror the fall along the straight line.
The collar is taking shape

















Modify the center back so it keeps right angles. (red lines)
We can extend down the center back line until a right angle is found. Then curve into the lower line (sewn on the neckline)













In red, we have the new collar outline.

We will have to develop so it sits well.















draw the cutting lines.
3 or 4, at equal distance and close to the shoulder seam : that where the collar turns the most.













Develop the collar.
Pivot at neckline making sure that no value is added there.

3 to 5 mm gap is enought for a small collar













Redraw nice curves and we are done














Watch the video for more details







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