How to draft the CAPE-RAGLAN

The Cape with a Raglan Cut

 Very, very easy garment to draft. The pattern is done from the basic block so it can be close fitted enough around the shoulder and follow the body shape nicely.

Follow the instruction and the video is at the end of that page for more fluency.

start from the basic dart block

First, dart distribution.

The shoulder dart and the bust dart are pivoted into the armhole for more ease of arm movement. 

There is no sleeve but the extra dart value counts.

Always make sure that the side seams and the shoulder seam dont change length. 

Now , the most important thing : levelling the shoulders

Draw an horizontal line from the lower tip (here the back, it can be the front, depending on your original block)

Lower the tip of the front shoulder so it reaches the horizontal line. The shoulder should have the same length and it can be done by pivotting the segment around the neckline-shoulder point.

Now the shoulders are levelled. It will allow total symetry on the curves drawn from that point down.

Draw the outline of the cape from the shoulder tip.

In our drawing, the cape will be very close fitted. You can draw it further away from the block to make the cape wider.

Mirror that line on the front.

Those curves are equal length because we have levelled the shoulder. It is important as those curves are part of the same seam.

Please, note that, if you have levelled the sides and the shoulder properly, the mirroring of the curve should be easy and be "spot on".

We can leave it here and drafa a simple cape with lateral seams

But we add Raglan cut openings for the arms

Draw the raglan lines.

Draw the front opening overlap line (2 cm away from the center front to position button and buttonhole.

Separate the pieces

Joining the two "sleeve parts".

Make sure than the bottom is the same as the original draft.

The overlap is minimal and at the arm level.

The top of the shoulder turns into a dart.

Round the outlines

And notch properly. The notches mark the end of the seam and the begining of the split to let the arm throught.

and the video :

How to draft the pattern of The trumpet skirt 2 : With peplum seam

That skirt is easy to draft. It is a bit more difficult than the previous one HERE

We start the same way as for the other trumpet skirt (see link above).

Skirt block with 2 darts evently distributed.

Lengthen

 

Join at side seam

Draw a line. It can be horizontal or slanted like on the drawing

Separate

On the bottom part, drawn vertical lines. 5 in my drawing, it could be more. They have to be equal width.

cut on those lines

Spread by pivoting along the top line. That line will curve but will remains the same length.

Redraw the outlines.

Another variante : with a curve instead of a line.

Have a look at the video

How to draft the pattern of The trumpet skirt 1 (with panels)

 

The trumpet skirt, here done through panels is so easy to make

We start with a basic block for skirt.

Note that we have 2 darts on each parts and that they are evenly distributed.

We place the first dart closer to the center front and the other dart half way between the first dart nd the side seam.

As it is a close fitted skirt, no need to give enlargements on the side.

Lengthen as you want

draw vertical line below the darts.

Those will be the panels.

6 panels

Separate the panels

Note that the legs of the dart are in the seams.

flare out equally at the level you want : knee, calf....

Lower 

or higher

Different variations

The flares don't have to be on the same horizontal line

MORE IN THE VIDEO

 

The Perfect Sleeve - Part 2

Part 1 is HERE 

How to draw the sleeve (the easiest possible way)- Part 2

We left here in the Part 1 

Sleeve's frame, crown's frame.

We will need 7 points for the crown.

We have already 3 (top of sleeve, underarms points)

We have 2 more points on the elbow line and the bend line (see part 1 for those lines)

We will find one point half way down for the crown and 1/3 down for the back.

the back is always higher than the front due to the arm movement towards the front.

For the front, draw the little line half way between the two points, perpendiculaire and mark next point 2 cm.

For the back, do the same : draw a little line between the 2 last points and draw a perpendicular half way. Mark the point at 1 cm away (it was 2 cm in the front)

We have our 7 points and we can trace our crown.

Make sure the crown is well rounded at the top.

Note that the front and back don't have the same width. It is because the front and the back armhole aren't equal.

Narrow at the wrist the same amount both side (from the side seams)

AND IT IS ALL FINISHED

REWATCH THE VIDEO FOR REVISION