Friday 12 February 2021

How to draft the pattern of The trumpet skirt 2 : With peplum seam


That skirt is easy to draft. It is a bit more difficult than the previous one HERE



We start the same way as for the other trumpet skirt (see link above).

Skirt block with 2 darts evently distributed.

Lengthen









 

Join at side seam
















Draw a line. It can be horizontal or slanted like on the drawing












Separate















On the bottom part, drawn vertical lines. 5 in my drawing, it could be more. They have to be equal width.














cut on those lines












Spread by pivoting along the top line. That line will curve but will remains the same length.














Redraw the outlines.













Another variante : with a curve instead of a line.


Have a look at the video








Thursday 11 February 2021

How to draft the pattern of The trumpet skirt 1 (with panels)

 










The trumpet skirt, here done through panels is so easy to make


We start with a basic block for skirt.

Note that we have 2 darts on each parts and that they are evenly distributed.

We place the first dart closer to the center front and the other dart half way between the first dart nd the side seam.





As it is a close fitted skirt, no need to give enlargements on the side.


Lengthen as you want






draw vertical line below the darts.


Those will be the panels.










6 panels













Separate the panels

Note that the legs of the dart are in the seams.
















flare out equally at the level you want : knee, calf....










Lower 







or higher







Different variations






The flares don't have to be on the same horizontal line




MORE IN THE VIDEO






 








Monday 8 February 2021

The Perfect Sleeve - Part 2

Part 1 is HERE 




How to draw the sleeve (the easiest possible way)- Part 2





We left here in the Part 1 

Sleeve's frame, crown's frame.















We will need 7 points for the crown.

We have already 3 (top of sleeve, underarms points)

We have 2 more points on the elbow line and the bend line (see part 1 for those lines)

We will find one point half way down for the crown and 1/3 down for the back.

the back is always higher than the front due to the arm movement towards the front.







For the front, draw the little line half way between the two points, perpendiculaire and mark next point 2 cm.
















For the back, do the same : draw a little line between the 2 last points and draw a perpendicular half way. Mark the point at 1 cm away (it was 2 cm in the front)


We have our 7 points and we can trace our crown.












Make sure the crown is well rounded at the top.

















Note that the front and back don't have the same width. It is because the front and the back armhole aren't equal.


















Narrow at the wrist the same amount both side (from the side seams)



AND IT IS ALL FINISHED



REWATCH THE VIDEO FOR REVISION








Pattern Making : where to start ? Block or no block?

Pattern Making : where to start?  I start with a block That is the way I have been introduced to PatternMaking from the design school. It is...